Secma Qpod Club

Qpod Club - be part of the fun!

Hi there, I am trying to get the whole engine/gearbox assembly out of my Qpod Sport 340. For the moment I didn't get very far (for something as small and theoretically simple it is proving problematic).

I figured the whole thing would be easier to work on if taken out because, to my mind, there is no way to get around the engine with it in situe and it badly needs an overhaul.

So as a start I wanted to remove the drive shafts, clearly there are the pinch bolts and the locking ring on the drive shaft but then I am stuck, there seems nowhere to put a puller and the shaft certainly isn't going anywhere without one. Is there a technique or a tool for getting the shafts out?

Views: 390

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

I think there's a large circlip to remove before knocking out the bearings

Hi Geoff.

You have a choice to either remove the Hub as an assembly, or to remove the drive shaft through the brake hub leaving the hub in place along with the brake still in place. 

From memory the following needs to be done.

Disconnect the hand brake cable.

Disconnect the hydraulic connection at the brake cylinder banjo bolt.

Remove the lower shock bolt. 

Remove the lower suspension arm bolt (which may also have the modification of a lower link attached too). 

Remove the pinch bolt through the U/J joint.

The whole assembly should now come off the car.

Refit is the reverse but bleed the brakes of course.

To remove just the drive shaft.

Remove the wheel and brake drum.

Remove the pinch bolts on the U/J joint.  (The outer bolt has to be removed so the shaft can be slid out of the splines).

If you look on the inside of the hub, you will see that the shaft is held into the hub through the bearings by a castellated nut. This nut needs to be undone.  The shaft should then slide out through the hub, with the castellated nut and possibly a washer sliding of the end.

This second method, might damage the bearings as you remove the shaft as it is a tight fit, so if you don't intend to change the bearings, then its probably better to remove the whole assembly.  Plus it gives you more access to the engine and gearbox.  The down side is you have to bleed the brakes afterwards.

Are you aware that the engine and gearbox can be removed as an assembly?  Much easier than fiddling around with separating the gearbox.

Remove all the ancillaries (exhaust, gear shift rod, fuel line throttle and choke cable etc). 

Note - there are some electrical cables that run up to a relay mounted on the underside of the tub above the engine.  I chose to pop the terminals out of the plug, but you could cut the cables and rejoin them when refitting.

Support the car securely on the chassis forward of the engine frame. 

Then support the engine from underneath. 

Remove the links that fit from both sides of the engine to the upper chassis frame.  (the right one is also the exhaust).

Undo and remove the long bolt through the forward end of the engine cradle, and the engine and gearbox should be free from the rest of the car.

If you PM me with your e-mail I could send you a pictorial story of how I did mine recently.

Hope this helps Geoff




Geoff, it has occurred to me that if you remove the bolt through the lower suspension mount, you should be able to swing the whole wheel and hub assembly outwards, hinging on the shock upper mount and therefore releasing the U/J joint from the gearbox.

Hope this helps?


Reply to Discussion



Read the Rules

Created by Alec Oct 6, 2008 at 9:39am. Last updated by Alec Oct 6, 2008.

Introduce yourself!

Created by Alec Oct 5, 2008 at 1:36pm. Last updated by Alec Oct 5, 2008.


Secma & Qpod spotlight

Qpod Sport by John Nichols

If you would like your Qpod to be featured, please email it to: admin (at)

© 2022   Created by Alec.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service